| Equipment / adjustment / heating / mounting / problem solving / maintenance / user directions / additional information | |||||||||||
| Mounting directions - Rubbing strakes for horizontal flange | |||||||||||
| Required equipment | |||||||||||
|
|||||||||||
| Adjustment of the flange edge and the selection of the rubbing strake | |||||||||||
| The outer edge of the flange (the grinding edge)
is recommended to be 10% narrower than the rubbing strake's inner depth. The position of the rivets should be 1 - 2 mm closer to the hull than the rubbing strake's fastening point (internal stay bar). This is important to compensate for the rubbing strake's narrowing when it is stretched on to the flange edge. Use a product sample as a gauge. Do not use the sketch in the product catalogue. Product samples can be delivered on request. |
 |
||||||||||
| Heating | |||||||||||
 The entire rubbing strake is to be heated to
approx. 80°C for 45 - 60 minutes. A hot cabinet is recommended to avoid damages to the
rubbing strake. If a water container is chosen, an opened oil drum can be used. Beware the
rubbing strake not to get in direct contact with the heat source as this will damage the
surface finish. If the rubbing strake is heated to long, the material will be damaged reducing the ageing properties. 2 Hrs heating is the recommended maximum. The rubbing strake is ready for mounting when it is soft and easy. The softness will normally stay for 5-10 minutes. |
|||||||||||
| Mounting | |||||||||||
Attach one end of the rubbing strake by drilling a hole through the bending strake and the flange. Put a nail or similar through the hole as a temporary attachment. If possible keep as much as possible of the rubbing strake heated under this operation. The rubbing strake is to be pulled as it is put on to the entire boat flange. You can calculate a elongation of 5-10% but this is very individual. The rubbing strake must be stretched to get a good fit, but not more! If the strake is over stretched it will become to narrow. An over stretch can easily be noticed by looking for bulges over the rivets / bolts on the flange. The tension around the corners are also of importance to avoid bulging. When you have mounted the rubbing strake around the boat you attach the other end temporarily by drilling a hole through the fender and the flange and securing it with a nail or similar. Excessive strake should be cut off. The rubbing strake is now to be permanently attached with through stainless screws and nuts with preferable big washers to avoid the screw/nut digging to much into the material. Stainless / acid proof joint fitting will give a nice transition where the ends of the rubbing strake is meeting. It is of importance to attach fittings through both the strake and the flange. Drill draining holes through the under side of the rubbing strake. If you are not satisfied with the result, you can always heat up and do it all over again. Practise will give you skills. |
|||||||||||
| Problem solving | |||||||||||
|
|||||||||||
| Maintenance and repairs of PVC rubbing strakes | |||||||||||
| The rubbing strake needs to be cleaned and applied a boat wax
yearly. For cleaning use kerosene based cleaning fluids only. Standard accessories for boats and cars is recommended. Acetone or other "strong" solvents must never be used on the surfaces as they will damage the finish and the ageing properties. Faded surfaces can be shaped up with pigments and a boat wax. Dull areas can be shaped up with wet grinding paper and polishing. A hot-gun can be used for glossing but this is recommended done by skilled personnel only as the wrong temperature and process can damage the material. Smaller damages can be welded with a hot-gun and additive material as when welding floor covering. A dismounting is required for inspection and repair of damages to the hull under the rubbing strake for bigger damages. The stroke is then recommended joint welded or mounted with stainless or acid-proof fittings. A rough, brittle consistence and/or visible signs of ageing calls for a change-out of the rubbing strake. By experience the normal life time is 15-20 years in a Nordic climate, but this life time is very individual depending on what it has been exposed to. |
|||||||||||
| The use of the PVC rubbing strake | |||||||||||
| A rubbing strake is designed to protect the flange edge of the
boat in addition to make a nice transition from the superstructure to the hull. A rubbing
strake should not be looked at as a substitute for fenders that are mandatory for mooring,
between boats etc. At very low temperatures the PVC will become brittle and crack more easily. Precautions should be taken during wintertime not to expose the rubbing strake to strokes and impacts when moored to avoid cracking. At high temperatures the PVC will become softer and the rubbing strake can easily be twisted off the flange. This should be considered when mooring. Fishing lines that is pulled over the rubbing strake will lead to scratches that are difficult to repair. |
|||||||||||
| Additional information | |||||||||||
| Technical descriptions and
properties of thermoplastics. If you have questions regarding mounting, maintenance or selection of rubbing strakes, contact Parma Plast AS. |
|||||||||||
The use of protective gloves is recommended as
the rubbing strake is very hot. For bigger profiles used on boats over 15 feet, it is
recommended that more people are involved in the mounting.